Click here for my 4-day Paris walking tour

**I regularly update this list and all addresses should be up to date. That said, as I no longer live in Paris, I advise you to confirm these businesses are still open for your convenience.

Bibliotheque des Arts Décoratifs; 107 Rue Rivoli (library) —go here for : a quiet, charming library; extensive art history research in multiple languages
La Rose de France; 24 Place Dauphine (bistro) —go here for : terrines of escargot and chestnut, perfectly cooked meats
E. Delhillerin; 18 rue Coquillière (cooking supplies store) —go here for : rare cooking supplies, culinary inspiration
“Destruction des Animaux Nuisibles”; 8 rue des Halles (photo opp!) —go here for : a good laugh and a reality check (concerning the old days at the Les Halles market)
Spring; 52 rue de l’Arbre Sec (specialty food store) —go here for : great wines, a smattering of high end gourmet delicacies-both french and foreign
Le Louvre des Antiquaires; 2 Place du Palais Royal (antiques and art gallery) –go here for : a tranquil walk through 3 floors of gorgeous antiques from all over the world, selected art exhibitions
Palais Royal; 25 Rue de Valois (park) —go here for : a luxurious stroll among high end art, antiques, and clothing shops
Mora; 13 Rue Montmartre (cooking supplies) —go here for : cooking supplies without the nostalgia, easy to navigate and well stocked.

Comptoir de la Gastronomie; 34 rue Montmartre (specialty foods store) —go here for: hard to find wines, charcuterie
Rue Montorgueil (walks/streets) —go here for : rotisserie chicken, eclairs, good smells and people watching

Au Levain du Marais; 32 Rue de Turenne (bakery) —go here for : the smell of fresh baked bread, carmelized nut tarts
Centre Pompidou, top floor (photo opp!) —go here for : a view of Sacre Coeur and the Eiffel Tower
Centre Pompidou, (attraction) —go here for : a mind-expanding, imagination-sparking museum experience
Rue Rambuteau (walks/streets) —go here for : guimauves (parisian marshmallows), italian sandwiches, interesting retail
Marché des Enfants Rouges; 39 Rue de Bretagne (outdoor dining) —go here for : world cuisine, historic context
Pain de Sucre; 14 Rue Rambuteau (candy/marshmallows) —go here for: parisian marshmallows
Foccaceria; Rue Rambuteau (sandwiches & wraps) —go here for: fresh, mediterranean sandwiches
Breizh Café; 109 Rue Vielle du Temple (crèpe restaurant) —go here for : crispy, inventive, sit-down crèpes and cider
Goumanyat: 3 Rue Dupuis (spice shop) —go here for : restaurant quality products, extensive variety
Tartes Kluger; 6 Rue de Forez (tarte restaurant) —go here for : meeting strangers, inventive tarts, to make yourself seem “branché”
Rue Bretagne (walks/streets) —go here for : fun gifts, people watching
Huré; 18 rue Rambuteau (bakery) —go here for : some of the best baguette sandwiches in Paris (including one with bbq sauce!)
Mary; 1 rue Charles-François Dupuis (gelateria) —go here for : the best gelato in Paris, served by Mary – a lady so Italian that she barely speaks a word of French.
Ofr; 20 rue Dupetit-Thouars (shop) —go here for: art books, vintage postcards, free art exhibits, hipster cool à la française
Fondation Cafe; 16 Rue Dupetit-Thouars (cafe) —go here for: a proper coffee, outdoor seating, an intimate neighborhood vibe
Le Mary Celeste; 1 Rue Commines (bar) —go here for: a delightfully designed bar in-the-round, happy hour wine or a cocktail, a first date

Aux Delices de Saint-Paul; 129 Rue Saint Antoine (bakery) —go here for : sandwiches, quiches, and dessert
Free’P’Star; 61 Rue de la Verrerie/8 rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie (thrift store) —go here for : cheap, random garb
L’as du Falafel; 36 Rue des rosiers (falafel restaurant) —go here for : the “best falafel in the world” (according to the NYTimes)
Berthillon; 31 Rue St. Louis en Ile (ice cream) —go here for: the best ice cream in Paris, especially passion fruit, raspberry & caramel beurre salé
Izrael: épicerie du monde; 30 Rue Francois-Miron (spice shop) —go here for : piment, pistachio halvah, wild rice
Folle du Logis; 25 Rue St. Paul/Village St. Paul (antique shop) —go here for : interesting cutlery and glassware
Bernard Lefrance; 38 Rue St Louis en l’Ile (cheese shop) —go here for: intense, funky aromas and an impressive cheese selection
Au Grand Appétit; 9 Rue de la Cerisaie (macrobiotic foodstore) —go here for : non-wheat grains, hard to find health-food

Le Violon Dingue; 46 Rue de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève (bar) —go here for: american ambiance, french people
Chez Nicos; 44 Rue Mouffetard (crèpe shop) —go here for: savory “crèpe du chef”
Café Maure/Le Restaurant, Mosquée de Paris; 39 Rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire (moroccan café/restaurant) —go here for: tagine, mint tea
Café de la Nouvelle Mairie (bar/bistro) —go here for : interesting organic wines, perfected “home cooking” on Tuesday and Thursday nights
Fromagerie Laurent Dubois; 47ter Boulevard Saint Germain (cheese shop) —go here for: diverse textures, fragrant aromas – overall cheese perfection.

Rue de Buci (walks/streets) —go here for : Saint Germain people watching, interesting retail and cafés
Eric Kayser ; 87 Rue d’Assas (bakery) —go here for : white chocolate brioche, amazing bread in general
Cuisine de Bar; 8 rue Cherche-Midi (open faced sandwiches, “tartines”) —go here for : the 11 euro lunch, Poilane bread
Malongo Café; 50 Rue Saint-André des Arts (café) —go here for : great espresso, breezy street views
Les Deux Magots; 6 Place St Germain des Prés (café) —go here for: the best chocolat chaud in town, amazing people watching
Le Comptoir du Relais; 9 carrefour de l’Odéon (bistro) —go here for: an elegant, light bistro lunch (no reservations)

Le Raspail; 58 Boulevard Raspail (bistro/café) —go here for : lunch, croque madame, salade de chevre chaud
La Grande Epicerie du Bon Marché; 38 rue de Sèvres (luxury grocery store) —go here for : international foodstuffs, hard to find products, spices and oils
Poujauran; 18 rue Jean Nicot (bakery) —go here for: great crusty breads, especially raisin/noisette
Chez L’Ami Jean; 27 rue Malar (restaurant) —go here for : riz au lait, nouveau-basque cuisine, the menu carte blanche

Laduree; 16 Rue Royale (bakery) —go here for : cassis et violet macarons, also café, pistache, or framboise
Neva; 2 rue de Berne (French restaurant) —go here for: a special occasion that won’t break the bank, beautifully plated haute cuisine

La Nouvelle Athènes; 46 rue Laffitte (hair salon) —go here for : dry-cut hair; natural, low-maintenance cuts
Bus Palladium; 6 rue Fontaine (club/bar) —go here for : live music, high-end karaoke, star sightings, ambiance

10e

La Tete dans les olives; 2 rue Sainte Marthe (épicerie/table d’hote) —go here for : olive oil, the “table d’hote”
Marché Saint-Quentin; 85 bis Blvd Magenta (covered market) —go here for : good quality/price ratio, hard to find products, cancaillote
Artazart; 83 quai de Valmy (design bookstore) —go here for : interesting and visually stimulating art books, gifts for creative friends
Canal Saint Martin (picnic spot) —go here for: a laid-back picnic, quirky barhopping, creative shopping, to escape the (annoying/other American) tourists
Le Verre Volé; 67 rue de Lancry (wine bar, bistro) —go here for : hard-to-find organic wines, refreshing but traditional French cuisine and pickings.
Du Pain et des Idées; 34 Rue Yves Toudic (boulangerie) —go here for: pâte feuilleté (flaky crust) pastries
Chez Prune; 36 Rue Beaurepaire (bistro) —go here for : finger-licking assiettes of cheese and meats, a lovely canal-side outdoor table, kitschy ambiance
Chez Jeanette; 47 Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis (bistro) —go here for: edgy bistro appeal, updated French fare
La Crèmerie; 41 Rue de Lancry (cheese shop)—go here for: an impressive selection of cheeses and artisan dairy products
Maje; 4 Rue de Marseille (sample store) —go here for: quintessential French working girl style at a much gentler price

11e

Marché Richard Lenoir (food market) —go here for: variety, lively people watching, pain libanais with thyme
Alimentation Générale; 64 Rue Jean Pierre Timbaud (bar) —go here for: free live music, dancing on the weekends
Baguette Tardif; 7 Rue Sedaine (bakery) —go here for : fresh, perfect baguettes
Au Pied de Fouet; 96 Rue Oberkampf (traditional french restaurant, terroir) —go here for: tradition, cassoulet, rillettes
Jean Louis David; 83 rue de la Roquette (hairdresser) — great, straightforward cuts
Chez Paul; 13 rue de Charonne (bistro) —go here for : fresh inventive salads, a sunny weekend lunch
Morry’s; 1 rue de Charonne (bakery) —go here for : bagel sandwiches (when you live abroad, sometimes you need your fix)
Al Taglio ; 2 bis rue Neuve Popincourt (pizza) —go here for : creative, savory pizza toppings, including truffle, potato, or pumpkin.
Le Chateaubriand; 129 avenue Parmentier (restaurant) —go here for : stripped-down bistro ambiance, unusual ingredients and flavor combinations, the fixed dinner menu (45€) which changes nightly
Caffé dei Cioppi; 159 Rue Faubourg Saint-Antoine (restaurant) —go here for : modern, fresh Italian food in a lovely cobbled-alley ambiance
Il Piccolo Otranto; 122 rue de Charonne (Italian specialty store) —go here for: artisanal pastas, oils, and antipasti products
Barbershop; 68 Avenue de la République (bar) —go here for: trendy/hipster scene, respectable cocktails
Septime; 80 Rue de Charonne (restaurant) —go here for: some of the freshest seasonal cuisine in the whole city, a leisurely lunch alone
Le Servan; 32 Rue St. Maur (restaurant) —go here for: some of the city's most interesting Asian-French "fusion" cuisine, like blood sausage wontons

12e

Viaduc des Arts (walks/streets) —go here for : a run, a romantic stroll
Marché Place d’Aligre (covered market) —go here for : excellent quality and selection, generally good prices, spit-roasted pig
Graineterie/Epicerie du Marché d’Aligre; 8 Place d’Aligre (dried beans, grains, and spices store) —go here for : an amazing selection of flours, dried legumes, and spices – and truly friendly service
Moisan; Place d’Aligre (boulangerie) —go here for organic breads and pastries : pain de figues, olive fougasse, viennoiserie du chocolat, pain de levain bio
Blé Sucré; 7 rue Antoine Vollon (patisserie/boulangerie) —go here for :escargot de raisin and other flaky pastries
Le bar à thé; 9 rue Antoine Vollon (tea shop) —go here for : exotic, hard-to-find teas from all over the world
La Gazzetta; 29 Rue de Cotte (restaurant) —go here for: elegant, art-deco ambiance with refreshing, inventive cuisine (5 or 7 satisfying, but not overly-filling courses)

13e

Tricotin; 15 ave de Choisy (asian restaurant, multiple cuisines) —go here for: good prices, delicious soups, cuisine à la vapeur
Pho 14; 129 ave de Choisy (vietnamese restaurant) —go here for: pho—and be prepared to wait for it.
Boulangerie; 64 Rue des Gobelins (bakery) —go here for: the best (football sized) meringues in town.
Marché Auguste Blanqui (food market) —go here for: one of the most reasonable Sunday markets
Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir (footbridge) —go here for: a romantic stroll, modern view of Paris and the BNF
Paris-Beirut; 242 rue de Tolbiac (lebanese restaurant) —go here fo : fresh mediterranean fare, mousaka, taboulé
Chez Gladines; 30 rue des Cinq Diamants (basque cuisine) —go here for: cheap, delightful gluttony : charcuterie, cheese, bacon and potato laden salads, generous portions all around
Genty Gastronomie; 169 Boulevard Vincent Auriol (cheese shop, gourmet shop) —go here for: the discounted cheese of the day

14e

Plan B; 89 rue Daguerre (bistro) —go here for: os à moelle, interesting wine selection
Casa Della Pasta; 19 rue Delambre (italian trader) —go here for : vegetable tarts, cold marinated salads, italian specialty products
Les Petits Plats; 39 rue des Plantes (bistro) —go here for: gamey meats, seasonal flavors, locals-only ambiance

15e

L’Arbre de Sel; 138 rue de Vaugirard (korean restaurant) —go here for : the dinner formule, galettes de champignon, dolsot bibimbap

16e

Jardins de Trocadéro (public park) —go here for: the best view of the Eiffel Tower

18e

Mur des je t’aime (photo opp!) —go here for : an enjoyably touristy moment, to learn to fall in love in little-known languages
Refuge des Fondues; 17 rue des Trois Frères (fondue restaurant) —go here for : cheap, amazing cheese fondue, photo opps, meeting strangers, finding reasons to gripe about tourists
Gontran Cherrier; 22 Rue Caulaincourt (bakery) —go here for: creative breads like squid ink or curry baguettes, a perfect croissant
Brasserie Barbès; 2 Blvd Barbès (restaurant) —go here for: a luxurious midday meal or rooftop gathering, Brooklyn-esque off-the-beaten-path vibes

19e

Parc des Buttes Chaumont (garden) —go here for : an exception park experience, the view, to feel like you left Paris
Rosa Bonheur; Buttes au Chaumont (restaurant/bar) —go here for : the ambiance, the staff, meeting people, dancing
The 104 (CENTQUATRE) ; 104 rue Aubervilliers (contemporary art gallery/cultural center) —go here for : interesting artistic events, bric à brac, the “ball”(s) de 104

20e

Le Baratin; 3 Rue Jouye Rouve (restaurant) —go here for: authentic french home cooking, no-frills service
La Mer à Boire; 1 Rue des Envierges (bar/bistro) —go here for: a cheap drink on a lovely outdoor terrasse alongside the breaktaking views of le Parc de Belleville

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AILLEURS (Elsewhere in France)

BESANCON

L’Affineur Comtois; 82-84 rue Battant (restaurant) —go here for : traditional comtois cuisine, fish or chicken baked in morels and vin jaune, fondue, artisanal ice creams
Baud; 4 Grande Rue (pastry shop) —go here for: old-school ambiance, refreshing fruit tarts, meringue and chocolate “truffles”

LYON

Café des Fédérations; 10 Rue Major Martin (restaurant, bouchon lyonnais) —go here for : rich, traditional fare, rillons, quenelles
Perroudon, Grande Patisserie de Bellecoeur; 6 Rue de la Barre (pastry shop) —go here for : tuiles