eater's digest

eater's digest: indulging in the east village

Since my last post was an uber-healthy recipe for a veggie breakfast smoothie, what better to follow with than an ode to indulgent junk food?

For those of you who follow me on Twitter, you know I'm really excited about my summer discovery of the nerdy, hilarious food lecture series, Masters of Social Gastronomy (MSG). The first of their talks I attended was on gelatin, which inspired me to go home and make a beautiful jello mold. (Beautiful, that is, until I flipped it upside down, and the half-firm cream layer reminded me that sometimes I should follow a recipe instead of my typical DIY cooking-on-the-fly. The good news is - it was still absolutely delicious!)

I returned to MSG this month for a lecture on ice cream, (which was packed! with delicious samples!) which of course led me to crave the 'cream, hard. So my friends and I devised an ingenious plot to hit up one of the most happening froyo spots in the city - Big Gay Ice Cream.

Of course, it's not really healthy to have ice cream for dinner, is it? (Say no.) Right, agreed. So what just happened to be around the corner from Big Gay? Crif Dogs - the infamous East Village purveyor of hot, salty meat on a bun.

Now, both of these stops on the oh-so-delicious-and-bad-for-you tour were first-time eats for me, making them all the more delightful. In anticipation of an ambitious dessert, I opted for a simple Crif Dog with sauerkraut and mustard - which was, frankly (pun intended), an amazing choice because you could really taste the meat. The Crif Classic, a smoked beef and pork dog, is an ingenious combo of all the things you love about both high- and low-end 'dogs. The meat doesn't taste like "mystery" - it tastes like a smoky, salty, sweating-with-flavor delight on a bun. (Except the bun was much too dry/bland for me. Probably holds up well to the wetter/wilder Crif combos, however).

So after enjoying the tried-and-true NYC meal of hotdogs on a sidewalk, we headed to Big Gay to join the line of eager patrons.

Something I have to give Big Gay major props on,  from the start, is the people in their line seem excited - not miffed, not cynical, but genuinely eager to be in line. I might attribute this to the unicorns and fairy dust that seem to emanate from the place. It really is special, from tip to toe. Also, newbies get a sidewalk menu consultation with a staff member (which is really reassuring and helpful, because when you get inside you will be overwhelmed). I, of course, asked many probing questions about the must-have cones and alternative combinations, and recommend everyone else take full advantage of the very happy staff's expertise at that point.

...Because once you get inside, you need to order - fast. Salty pimp is a classic, you absolutely cannot go wrong with salt, caramel injected soft serve, and chocolate dip. But I was craving the smashed pretzels of the chocolate globs cone (also salty and dipped in chocolate) and I wanted some caramel - so after a bit of back-and-forth, the hilarious man at the counter told me exactly what I needed to have. Chocolate globs, twist soft serve, bourbon caramel. A cone so ripe with all-that-is-right-in-the-world (see: toppings) that it literally needs to be laid down in a little plastic cradle so you can attack it without it exploding into delicious bits.

And you know what? I did not feel disgusting, over fed, or bad about myself after that double-duty indulgence in the East Village. I felt victorious. (Even though now, writing about it, I kind of feel like I'm on speed. Which is actually how my sugared-up friend Gillian sounded when expressing her excitement about Big Gay on the walk home.)

The moral of the story is:

1) Don't go to food lectures hungry, unless you want to be "inspired". 2) Big Gay Ice Cream shop is amazing. Literally magical. And has a higher buttermilk content than most soft serve around. 3) You could do far worse than a plain 'ol juicy dog chez Crif. 4) If for some reason you do get a junk food hangover, I've still got your back in the morning.

eater's digest: natural gourmet institute

Photos by Madeleine Goico Here’s a challenge: find a three-course dinner in New York City that is not only innovative and elegant, but healthy and affordable. To boot, make it a prime time reservation: Friday night.

It’s a seemingly impossible set of criteria and yet, the Natural Gourmet Institute’s Friday Night Dinner promises all of the above. Every Friday at 6:30 pm, students, instructors or alumni guest chefs prepare a three-course vegetarian feast for at least eighty guests. Each meal features the highest quality organic, seasonal, whole, unprocessed foods. At the remarkable price of $40 per person, that’s a guilt-free indulgence all around.

I had the pleasure of joining a few NGI administrators for a graduation dinner in June, the culinary culmination of months of student preparation and planning. The soon-to-be-alumni had chosen a dynamic, Latin American inspired menu, featuring foodstuffs such as yucca, tomatillos and plantains.

We began with a watercress and grilled asparagus salad, as well as a summer melon soup. A light, lemon-y vinaigrette complemented the bitter, spicy seasonal greens. The soup was clean and translucent, textured with subtle, finely chopped guava-smoked salted cucumber. Elegant, refreshing and balanced, this appetizer left your palate awakened for the following course.

Our entrée was a duo of tamales, plated over a zesty carrot and plantain habanero sauce. The umami of wild mushroom and white truffle was nicely spiced with tomatillo and chipotle, a diverse range of flavors for a relatively mild dish. The other tamale, swiss chard and almond cream, tasted of nutty root vegetables, with a remarkably light, smooth, mashed-potato-like texture.

Last but not least, dessert was a Mexican cinnamon ice cream and a spiced chocolate truffle. The ice cream was dairy-free and lightly spiced, resembling sorbet in texture. The truffle rivaled any that I’ve ever eaten, with an addictively dense outer shell and luxurious, molten center.

The lasting sentiment at the table – at least among the guests – was that of awe and curiosity. It was difficult to guess the ingredients that allowed for certain items’ vegetarian transformation, as - aside from the ice cream - each dish matched, if not surpassed, its omnivorous counterpart. In fact, dinner at the Natural Gourmet Institute is the best possible advertisement for their Chef’s Training program and public classes. For once you’ve tasted the food, you’ll be hooked on recreating the recipes.

Natural Gourmet Institute 48 W 21st St # 2 New York, NY 10010 (212) 645-5170

eater's digest: sandwiches of nyc

It might sound sacrilegious, but I'm not the type of girl who gets excited about a sandwich. In fact, before I lived in Paris, I wasn't really "into bread." Since then, I've learned to love a good loaf, but the crusty heritage grain or sourdough boules I crave are more suited to sopping up sauces than stacking up cold cuts.

The average ol' American sandwich doesn't celebrate bread; it renders it a mere vehicle for debatably exciting fillers. And those who do try to use exquisite loaves often botch the crust-to-inside balance of the ideal bite. (*For the record, I exclude open-faced tartines. They are an entirely different animal from the sandwich, given their sit-down/fork & knife style.)

Yet everyone once in a while, I fall upon an inventive sub or panini that revives my faith in the the future of portable lunch. After two years in New York - and countless meals on-the-go - there are three sandwiches I still swoon over, even if I've the time for a proper seated siesta.

1) Num Pang - Pulled Pork or Catfish w/ Pickled Carrots, Cilantro & Cucumber

When the bahn mi craze hit, I wasn't the biggest fan. After living in Paris, stateside baguettes tend to leave me less-than-impressed. In the case of most BM shops, their stale impressions of this seminal French bread remain impossibly dry, no matter the highly-curated contents. So when my sister and mother started raving about a "Cambodian sandwich shop", I anticipated an equally desiccated sub. To my surprise, the semolina num pang rolls are a softer, subtler sibling to the bahn mi baguette. Here, filling is king, and boy is it delicious. Savory, spicy, acidic and crunchy - it is sustenance and refreshment in one. To boot, NP's grilled chili-coconut corn is beyond addictive.

2) No. 7 Sub - Broccoli, Riccota Salata, Lychee Pickles & Toasted Pine Nuts

I'm all for wacky, rare ingredients, so I was pretty intrigued when I got wind of the latest Flatiron food addiction. I've tried a few different sandwiches at No. 7, but the broccoli is by far my favorite. I usually hate syrupy-sweet lychees, but pickled, they are genius. Riccota salata and toasted pine nuts are enough to win over any good Italian girl, and I pity people who hate broccoli. Depending on who makes your sub, the bread here can tend a little towards the aforementioned Bahn Mi dryness, but on a good day it's just so damn delicious.

3) Porchetta - Namesake Sandwich

The first NYC sandwich to ever win my heart, the Porchetta classic will go down in East Village history. Can you ever have enough cracklin'? I think not. In fact, I've asked for extra and the pig-loving meat carvers are sometimes lovely enough to indulge me. The pork itself is slow-cooked and stuffed with rosemary, sage, garlic, salt and - the hot spice of 2011 - wild fennel pollen. By the way, the similarly seasoned potatoes with cracklin' are also sinfully good...